#298: Sri Lanka

This note is perhaps twice the length of my normal entries, but I feel I only got started.  It centers around a man in Sri Lanka named Anjhid.  He was a stranger.  In the shortest time, I realized he was a dear friend.

- Amanda

Sri Lanka

I was fortunate to spend the month of March in the beautiful island country of Sri Lanka. As I finished up packing and closed out work for the week, I kept hearing similar things from those I shared my travel plans with. 

“Always carry either a pocket knife or mace.”

"Pack a flashlight and shine it in their eyes if someone tries to approach you.”

“Make sure your money is always stored in different areas.” 

Though many I spoke with were happy to hear about my backpacking plans, there were also these warnings that were voiced and advice-giving for my safety and well-being. People wanted to make sure I knew exactly what to do if ever faced with petty crime or violence. I did not have worries of my own to travel to this part of the world, and I know generalizations aren’t always totally true, but some of these things soon started to stick in my head and cause a bit of apprehension upon arrival. So when my boyfriend and I landed at 4AM and pulled up to the hostel we had booked, I closed the door of the Uber and gripped my luggage as we wearily walked towards a dark cement building.  

An older man wearing a sarong and no shirt appeared seemingly out of nowhere and caught me off guard, so I quickly clutched my belongings even tighter. We didn’t know who he was, but he motioned for us to follow him up to the second floor. With hesitation, we followed. But as we got to our designated room, he shook a locked knob that wouldn’t budge. Then he looked back at us helplessly, “No key.”

After 27 hours of travel, I felt anxiety strike. I think the tiredness put me more on edge, especially as it was my first hour on a new continent and we couldn’t even get into our accommodation. And we were kept company by a man who seemed to speak no English, throwing his hands up in the air in defeat when we asked if he knew the code to the lock box with the room key we were assigned. “No code.” 

It was a good start.

My sleep deprived brain, not to mention the cautions from loved ones passing through it, left me feeling uneasy. And I hoped nothing bad would happen to us on this vacant city street the first night of our arrival. Did this man actually work for the hostel? Would he take advantage of us in this vulnerable moment? 

Well, turns out, absolutely not. My first impression couldn’t have been farther off. And I learned this in wonderful ways. Long story short, after about fifteen minutes, we made a call and someone else came to help us and we retrieved the key. And all was well after that. 

When we stepped outside the next morning, we ran right back into the man. His name was Anjhid. And this time he was more awake and now had a smile beaming across his face, quickly recognizing us after last night’s minor troubles. 

We discovered that he did actually speak some English. And the short phrases he would say ended up being quite comical. Actually, his playful and very humorous demeanor reminded me of my beloved grandmother who was quite the character too, which made his fun personality even more special to me. He would play jokes on us, tell us we were good looking and youthful and to "never smoke", and he’d call me “daughter.”  

“Be careful, daughter…” He’d say as he smoked his pipe and we’d head off onto the congested streets to find dinner. Later that night, as we returned, he was eating something that was all over his mouth. “What you got there, Anjhid??” My boyfriend asked. His reply was immediate and enthusiastic, “CAKE! CAKE!” And he smiled the biggest toothless smile, icing everywhere. Then he held up this messy piece of cake which he clutched right in the palm of his hand. It was quite funny, and Anjhid’s joy in that moment was contagious to say the least. He had us cracking up through each encounter we had during our first weekend in what I would soon discover to be one of the most incredible countries I have ever been. 

Sri Lanka’s landscape is absolutely gorgeous. We got to enjoy the flour-like sand on its coastline. We had the privilege of teaching English in a remote village to a very dedicated and appreciative group of teenagers. We spent time hiking the breathtaking mountains at sunrise, while also cherishing some glowing sunsets on the beaches. And we appreciated the delicious and very unique cuisine and spices, as well as some soul-warming tea.

But upon returning home to the states, when people asked what I loved most about the trip, the thing that stood out to me most was simply the welcoming energy and gentle souls of the local people. 

Tourists of course should be alert and aware of their surroundings in any new place they go, no matter what country or city. But since that first night, there was never another experience where my mind hastily jumped to a place of fear or concern. Sri Lankans were nothing but trusting and kind. 

Everyone we met greeted us with a huge smile, offered to help us with directions, share their drink or fresh fruit they held, accommodate us for the night if it was raining, or share stories and teach us words in their native language - Singhalese. It was wonderful to steer away from touristy places at times and seek out experiences that allowed us to feel more immersed in the culture. And then, after three unforgettable weeks flew by, we ended our trip back at the very same hostel near the airport we originally stayed in because we loved it so much. And by “it", I mean the two individuals who ran it. 

Anjhid was of course the very first smiling face we saw when we returned. And on our last morning as we stumbled out early to catch our ride to the airport, he again appeared and grabbed my luggage from me with his frail arms and carried it all the way to our taxi (even though it had wheels and could’ve been rolled). We wished him the very best and thanked him for his help. I think I was really thanking him for the reminder of one specific thing though: to always keep an open mind, a phrase I now have tattooed in Singhalese on my left arm. I realized through my time with this sweet man that it’s often best to walk confidently into new experiences without too many expectations or preconceived notions. And while doing so, remember to keep smiling towards others, even if there’s cake stuck in your teeth. 

As we traveled through the country, we got to enjoy so much and connect with so many, and I am immensely grateful. But it was heartbreaking to see first-hand the hardships these incredibly kind-hearted people were facing and still are right now. Each day, Sri Lankans are challenged with rising inflation, fuel shortages, and 13-hour a day power outages, hurting already-struggling businesses. There is an extreme scarcity of food, medicine, and medical supplies. Foreign investment is down 70% and the country’s debt to GDP has risen +30% in a year. Tear gas is being used on protestors in the streets. Due to the power cuts, children are using homemade kerosene oil lamps to do their homework. People stand in 90 degree weather, holding containers in queues that stretch for miles on end just to fill up gas. Some have reportedly died from heat stroke. The list of unimaginable issues goes on. My heart goes out to this island nation that is full of so many generous souls and hard-working individuals, and I can’t begin to imagine what their daily lives have been like just in the last week. 

I want to do what I can to play my part to raise awareness and help. My sister Christina happens to work with a Sri Lankan woman and I reached out to her for sources to donate to. If you may feel inspired to make a donation to help too, please feel free to connect with me. Thank you for taking the time to read my short story. Anjhid was the first of many kind souls we met that moved us and reminded us of the value of simply being caring and present, even if you don’t have all the answers, and I miss the country and its people dearly.

https://www.aljazeera.com/gallery/2022/3/10/photos-sri-lanka-power-cuts-affect-all-walks-of-life

https://www.abc.net.au/news/2022-04-12/inside-sri-lankas-worst-economic-crisis-in-history/100975192